There's no better occasion for a slightly over-the-top dessert than New Year's Eve. A dense chocolate hazelnut torte, coated in dark chocolate ganache, jeweled with candied hazelnuts and topped with a halo of spun sugar is great for a special occasion. The torte is soft and dense since it is flourless, with a slight graininess from the ground hazelnuts. This was a crowd pleaser as the chocolate and hazelnut flavours really come through without being cloyingly sweet. It can also sit out without refrigeration so guests can enjoy it at their leisure while waiting for the countdown.
The recipe is somewhat work-intensive, but for a special occasion it is well worth the extra time. The actual process is not difficult but there is a good amount of prep work (chopping and melting chocolate, toasting and grinding hazelnuts, caramelizing sugar, etc.)
This was the first time I made spun sugar. It was fun to (carefully!) fling the hot caramel between two skewers and watch the glossy strands form. The glittery gold threads were the perfect touch for a dessert to ring in the new year.
Chocolate Hazelnut Torte
For torte
6 ounces fine-quality bittersweet chocolate (not unsweetened), chopped
1 cup hazelnuts (about 4 ounces)
2/3 cup plus 3 tablespoons sugar
1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, softened
5 large eggs, separated
1 teaspoon vanilla
3/4 teaspoon salt
Preheat oven to 375°F. Butter an 8 1/2-inch springform pan and line bottom with a round of wax paper. Butter paper and dust pan with flour, knocking out excess.
For glaze
6 ounce fine-quality bittersweet chocolate (not unsweetened), chopped
1/2 cup heavy cream
In a metal bowl set over a pan of barely simmering water melt chocolate, stirring until smooth, and cool.
Spread hazelnuts in a shallow baking pan and toast in oven until they begin to turn pale golden, 7 to 10 minutes. Cool hazelnuts completely. Discard any hazelnut skins that rub off easily and transfer nuts to food processor. Add 3 tablespoons sugar and grind mixture fine.
In a large bowl with an electric mixer beat together butter and remaining 2/3 cup sugar until light and fluffy. Add yolks, 1 at a time, beating well after each addition, and beat in vanilla, salt, and melted chocolate. Beat in hazelnut mixture until combined well.
In another large bowl with cleaned beaters beat whites with a pinch salt until they just hold stiff peaks. Whisk about one-fourth whites into chocolate mixture to lighten and fold in remaining whites gently but thoroughly. Spread batter evenly in springform pan and bake in middle of oven 45 to 55 minutes, or until a tester comes out with crumbs adhering. Cool torte completely in pan on a rack and remove side of pan. Invert torte onto a serving plate and discard wax paper.
To make glaze:
Put chocolate in a small metal bowl. In a small saucepan bring cream to a boil and pour over chocolate. Stir glaze just until completely smooth and let stand until thickened slightly, about 20 minutes.
Spread glaze evenly over top and side of torte. Let torte stand until glaze is set, about 2 hours.
Caramel-Dipped Hazelnuts
12 hazelnuts (not toasted, as toasted ones will split when you put the skewer in them)
1 cup sugar
1/4 cup water
Gently insert pointed end of a long wooden skewer into the side of each hazelnut. Place a cutting board along the edge of a countertop; place newspaper on the floor, directly under cutting board.
Prepare an ice-water bath. Heat sugar and the water in a heavy saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until sugar is dissolved and syrup is clear. Stop stirring; cook until syrup comes to a boil, washing down sides of pan with a wet pastry brush to prevent crystals from forming. Continue to boil, gently swirling occasionally, until medium amber. Plunge pan into ice bath to stop the cooking; let stand until thickened, about 10 minutes. (To test: Dip a skewer in caramel and lift a few inches; if a thick drip slowly forms and holds a string, the caramel is ready.)
Dip a skewered hazelnut into caramel, letting excess drip back into pan. When dripping syrup becomes a thin string, secure opposite end of skewer under cutting board. Repeat with remaining hazelnuts. (If caramel hardens before all hazelnuts have been dipped, rewarm it over low heat.) Let stand until caramel string has hardened, about 5 minutes; break each string to desired length. Carefully remove skewers. Candied hazelnuts should be used the same day; store, uncovered, at room temperature until ready to use.
Spun Sugar
1 cup sugar
1/4 cup water
Cover your kitchen counter and floor with newspaper, to catch sugar spills. Place 2 wooden spoons or skewers about 1 foot apart so that the stick extends past the counter top (place a cutting board on top to keep it in place). Spray the handles with nonstick cooking spray.
Prepare an ice-water bath. Heat sugar and the water in a heavy saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until sugar is dissolved and syrup is clear. Stop stirring; cook until syrup comes to a boil, washing down sides of pan with a wet pastry brush to prevent crystals from forming. Continue to boil, gently swirling occasionally, until medium amber. Plunge pan into ice bath to stop the cooking. Allow to thicken slightly.
Hold the pan in one hand and a fork in the other. Dip the fork in the sugar syrup and stir. Remove the fork from the heat and hold it 5-6 inches above the prepared sticks. Rapidly flick the fork back and forth over the sticks. The sugar syrup should create very fine strands of sugar that drape over the handles. If the syrup doesn’t create any strands, or the strands have a lot of “beads,” allow the syrup to cool for another minute. If the strands are very lumpy and difficult to form, re-heat the syrup very briefly.
Continue to dip and quickly flick the fork over the handles, creating many fine strands of spun sugar. At any point, you can remove the sugar that has accumulated and shape it into balls, nests, or thin tubes as desired. Continue to create spun sugar until your syrup is gone, or until you have enough spun sugar for your needs.
Spun sugar is best used immediately after it is made, as the sugar starts to liquefy if it comes into contact with anything moist or humid.
1/4 cup water
Cover your kitchen counter and floor with newspaper, to catch sugar spills. Place 2 wooden spoons or skewers about 1 foot apart so that the stick extends past the counter top (place a cutting board on top to keep it in place). Spray the handles with nonstick cooking spray.
Prepare an ice-water bath. Heat sugar and the water in a heavy saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until sugar is dissolved and syrup is clear. Stop stirring; cook until syrup comes to a boil, washing down sides of pan with a wet pastry brush to prevent crystals from forming. Continue to boil, gently swirling occasionally, until medium amber. Plunge pan into ice bath to stop the cooking. Allow to thicken slightly.
Hold the pan in one hand and a fork in the other. Dip the fork in the sugar syrup and stir. Remove the fork from the heat and hold it 5-6 inches above the prepared sticks. Rapidly flick the fork back and forth over the sticks. The sugar syrup should create very fine strands of sugar that drape over the handles. If the syrup doesn’t create any strands, or the strands have a lot of “beads,” allow the syrup to cool for another minute. If the strands are very lumpy and difficult to form, re-heat the syrup very briefly.
Continue to dip and quickly flick the fork over the handles, creating many fine strands of spun sugar. At any point, you can remove the sugar that has accumulated and shape it into balls, nests, or thin tubes as desired. Continue to create spun sugar until your syrup is gone, or until you have enough spun sugar for your needs.
Spun sugar is best used immediately after it is made, as the sugar starts to liquefy if it comes into contact with anything moist or humid.
Torte recipe from Gourmet Magazine (1995)
Candied hazelnut recipe adapted from Martha Stewart Living (2006)
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